Food Shopping

SMALL SHOPS AND MARKETS

Many people in Bologna do their shopping at negozi di alimentari (small grocers), outdoor markets and specialty shops. While it can be overwhelming at first, shopping Italian-style and liberating oneself from the one-stop superstore becomes a real pleasure. Don’t be discouraged if shop personnel seem a little reserved at first. The key to shopping in Bologna is to find stores or stands that you like and return again and again. After two or three visits back to the same place you’ll be accepted as a regular customer. The tradeoff is you may not find everything you want in one stop. Establishing and maintaining a good relationship with local vendors should be a part of your game plan. Don’t hesitate to ask questions about food preparation. Many vendors are pleased to tell you how to cook a vegetable you’ve never tried before or offer suggestions for marinating the lamb chops you’re buying for dinner.

The price of an item is usually clearly displayed on individual placards and is calculated either in kilograms or etti. One etto equals 100 grams or a tenth of a kilo. If you’re not familiar with the metric system, ordering may be intimidating, but it won’t be long before you’re able to correctly gauge just how many apples in a kilo, or prosciutto in one etto.  Of course you can also order fruit by number, as in cinque mele (five apples).

Try your neighborhood shops or head to one of the market areas in the heart of the city.  One such neighbourhood shop is Drogheria 53, in via Pietralata 45/A which sells locally sourced organic fruit, vegetables, pulses, eggs and more. This piccola bottega is run by Rita, whose kindness and commitment to environmental and social sustainability is legendary in the neighbourhood. 

If you prefer home delivery, check with your favourite shops and markets since most of them will be happy to do it. 

The biggest covered market is the Mercato delle Erbe  (www.mercatodelleerbe.eu; Via Ugo Bassi, 2; Open Monday to Saturday 7-19:30).

Here you can find fruit and vegetable stands as well as butcher shops, cheese shops, bakeries etc. The fishmonger is located in a special section in the back.

Mercato delle Erbe has been renovated to include a range of eateries perfect for a quick lunch or a simple and fun aperitivo  inside and outside of the food court.

The outdoor market area nestled into the side streets off Piazza Maggiore, also known as Quadrilatero (check the website) showcases displays of produce, beautiful Parmiggiano and Grana Padano cheeses and cold cuts, but prices are somewhat higher. If you’re willing to stand in line, there are three very good fishmongers and a number of produce stands on Via Pescherie and Via Drapperie. The market is also a great place to shop by bicycle – you don’t even have to get off your bici (bike) to make your purchase! The Quadrilatero has, in recent years, become one of the favourite spots for an aperitivo Bologna-style, where you can sip your favourite chilled prosecco and have a plate of prosciutto, salami & formaggio nibbles.

There are many other neighbourhood markets, such as the one in Piazza Aldrovandi, Porta San Mamolo, Via Veneto, Mercato Albani in the Bolognina neighbourhood, to name just a few specializing in fresh produce and other staples. In addition, there are farmers markets which offer organic, locally produced food, usually on Saturdays (e.g. Via del Pratello) or Sundays (e.g. Piazza Carducci, www.fondazioneslowfood.com/mercato-della-terra-di-bologna).  Probably the best known is Il Mercato Ritrovato (www.mercatoritrovato.it, Via Azzo Gardino 65) which is hosted by the Cineteca di Bologna.